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Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, and Old School Things

This past March marked our 46th year of business, over half a lifetime for owner Joe Murawski; undeniably time well spent.  Most days Joe can be found in his office, the helm of Joden Jewelers – steering the ship.  Joe is usually lounging in his chair, Italian leather loafers resting on the edge of the desk, a strong cup of coffee steaming in front of him, with the phone pressed to his ear.  To the casual observer, it looks like chit chat; friendly banter.  Those people couldn’t be more wrong.  This is where the real business happens.  Jewelry skates across the desk at an alarming pace.  Connections are established, maintained, and solidified.

Last week, I introduced you to the work of Carlo Giuliano.  I mentioned the enameled cross, pictured below.  What I didn’t tell you was that this piece was acquired as the result of several telephone calls.

giuliano-cross-sideways

While these photos are quite good, they can not begin to share the exquisite details of this rare beauty.  The body of the cross is comprised of six rectangular sections, each one centered on a precious gem, either a diamond, emerald, or sapphire.  Each of these stones is surrounded by a border of white enamel with black and blue swirls.  To further accent this piece, the side and back of each segment are enameled as well, in more complex patterns featuring the addition of powder blue and soft pink enamel.  No matter where you look, you will find a new detail:  a natural pearl, a French cut ruby, or a tiny gold bead.

            

In a time where most businesses are dependent on computers, here at Joden, we’re kicking it old school.  We’ll stick with the telephone.  You never know who or what might be on the other end.

“You can go to a museum and look, or you can come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Now You See It…

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, and Missing Things

It was luck.  Being in the right place at the right time.  That is what initially spurred a younger Joe Murawski to begin collecting the rare works of renowned jeweler, Carlo Giuliano.  When a colleague passed up an opportunity to buy a tiny intricately enameled butterfly, Joe stepped in and purchased the lifelike gem.  The images below show the butterfly featured on an early piece of Joden advertising.

old-brochure

giuliano-butterfly

In the years since, Joe has collected and privately placed over forty pieces of the work of the Giuliano family; some from the father, and some from the sons, Carlo Joseph and Arthur.  The current collection features twenty three examples, each one a treasure in its own right.  The crown jewel, in Murawski’s eyes, is an extremely rare multicolored enamel cross (shown below).  Acquired from a private source, the cross is a true one of a kind.

Giuliano cross 8-24c.eps     Giuliano cross back 9-09.eps

In what can only be called a case of mysterious disappearance, eight Giuliano pieces vanished four years ago.  We had kept the rarest of the collection in one box in Joe’s office…  a gem-set bracelet worn by Queen Victoria (pictured below), an agate scarab and enamel pendant, a garnet-carved cameo of the Greek god Mercury, a multicolored sapphire and enamel bar pin, a moonstone cruciform pendant, a black and white enameled mourning locket, an oversize Lapis Lazuli cross, a heart-shaped pendant depicting a multicolored enamel cherub (shown below), and a fine carved opal cameo with rose cut diamond frame.  All of these were in a cardboard box, marked on one corner was the word “Giuliano” in Joe’s handwriting.

giuliano-victoria     cherub

It was a late summer day in August of 2012.  Joe had a client in the office, and as was his habit, he showed the Giuliano collection.  Playback of video surveillance shows him opening the butterfly-style box containing the Victoria bracelet, sharing it with the client, then placing it on the desk beside him.  This is the last tangible evidence of those pieces.  They were never seen again.  Several theories have been postulated – perhaps the box was knocked off the desk into the garbage can.  Perhaps they were stolen.  Perhaps the box is still here somewhere…  waiting to be found.  Four years have passed since that fateful day, without even a hint as to what may have transpired.

It was only in researching this post that I discovered that ours was not the first box of missing Giuliano jewelry.  After his death in 1895, Carlo the father bequeathed a selection of his enamels to the South Kensington Museum (Victoria & Albert Museum) to be displayed outside the tea room.  In 1899, the box that contained the pieces was stolen.  Experts theorized that the items were melted for scrap gold value.

For a collection that began with a stoke of luck, it nearly ended with a stroke of misfortune.  In the days and weeks after the loss, our passion for the collection waned.  However, as more time passed Joe added several newly acquired pieces to the collection (like the brooch pictured below).  Our original love was restored.  The Giuliano collection is once again in its place of honor, quietly gracing the top tier of our museum case.

black-and-white-giuliano-brooch

Written by Carrie Martin

Some Like It Scot

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, and Scottish Things

About fifteen years ago, I read a book called “Outlander” – written by Diana Gabaldon.  (I highly recommend it to any and all!)  It changed my life.  Not only did I fall in love with the series, but I also fell in love with all things Scottish – naturally, that included the jewelry.

Most of the Scottish pieces that we have at Joden are brooches, like the one pictured below.

mini-dirk-brooch

This type of jewelry is often referred to as “Scottish Pebble Jewelry” – dubbed as such by Queen Victoria.  She and Prince Albert visited Scotland for the first time in 1842.  They were enchanted by the beautiful country.  After returning home, Victoria began gifting friends and family alike with tartans and Highland style gifts – primarily jewelry.  Most of this jewelry was constructed of intricately carved sterling silver set with the pebbles of Scotland…  also known as Agate.  These colorful stones were precisely fitted to the jewels made in the shape of Celtic knots, shields, crests, and dirks.

This (pictured below) is a silver agate Dirk brooch.  It was designed after a traditional dagger and sheath, and actually gives the appearance of three blades, each one accented on its hilt with a faceted round citrine.  The remainder of this piece is set with Bloodstone, Red Jasper, and Montrose Lace – all forms of agate, or Scottish Pebbles.  Circa 1890.

dirk-brooch-2

Another notable piece at Joden is this vintage Cloak pin (shown below).  The head of each pin is perfectly assembled from six different colors of carved and polished agate.  The two pins are then connected by a series of ten octagonal pieces of agate.  Its and explosion of color and texture.  Circa 1880.

cloak-pin

Due to the huge demand, English jewelers began making pieces in the same style.  Initially, they stayed true to the Scottish motif, but over time, the jewelry began to take on a distinctly English feel.  The agate that was originally from Scotland was replaced with stones from other areas.  And while the spirit of the jewelry remained largely the same, the quality waned.  Pieces produced after WWII (like the ones pictured below), while lovely, do not exhibit the craftsmanship of the ones made during the Victorian era.

So, if you’re an Outlander fan like me, or if you love Scottish Pebble jewelry, come visit us at Joden.

“You can go to a museum and look, or you can come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Carla Leight

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