The Color of Edwardian

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and an Edwardian Ring

Often, the Edwardian Era is defined by the years between 1901-1910.  However, there is always a crossover period… a time when the style of one period influences and flows over into the next.  This is perhaps most evident in the years between Edwardian and Art Deco.  Many sources state that the Deco period began in 1919 and ended in 1939.  As you may have noticed, there is a nine year gap between the two eras.  Those years aren’t lost – it’s simply a time when Edwardian nuances developed into Art Deco ideals. 

Most of the jewelry from the very early 1900’s is monochromatic.  Made almost entirely of platinum and decorated with diamonds and pearls, this jewelry is predominantly white in color.  Marked by the reign of King Edward VII, the time was shaped by his laidback yet extravagant lifestyle.  Fashionable accessories were laden with bows, ribbons, floral garlands and everything romantic.  Tassels and lace provided inspiration for clothing ateliers and jewelers.  

I couldn’t resist the romantic allure of this delicate darling.  Platinum filigree creates a lovely metallic lace setting for this 1915 piece.  Surrounding the center of the ring is an ornate framework that culminates in a pair of stylized bows with long tails that cascade down the shoulders.  Classic Edwardian elements are evidenced by the tiny beaded edges, hand-engraved shank, and pierced cut-outs.  The epitome of elegance, this ring showcases everything that the Edwardian era is famous for.  

Fifty-two European cut diamonds cover the low-profile surface, bringing .75 carat of brilliant shimmer to the platinum setting.  All of this elaborate decor serves to highlight the bright center stone.  Nestled within the original bezel is one natural deep blue sapphire.  This cobalt-colored gem is round in shape and weighs approximately 1.15 carats.  It is relatively clean internally with just a few small marks on the surface.  The rich blue color is what makes the stone shine – with flashes of navy, this medium-blue sapphire is stunning.  However, it is interesting to note that it is not original to the ring.  Perhaps you remember me mentioning that Edwardian jewelry is often monochromatically white in color – that includes the metal and the gemstones.  It’s quite rare to have a colored center stone in an early 1900’s ring; more than likely, this beauty likely held a diamond when it was created.  

Shown on the hand, this Edwardian enchantress is quite an eyeful.  Currently measuring a finger size 7.75, this ring can be sized.  The latest addition to our website, it’s moderately priced at $3,350.00.  If you’ve been dreaming of the perfect antique sapphire and diamond ring, look no more.  

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

Metal & Lace

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Artisanal Things

Filigree is arguably the most popular element of vintage jewelry design.  Customers often reminisce about how a particular example is just like their grandma’s ring – not just a sentimental memory but also a treasured heirloom.  This time-intensive artform has been used for hundreds of years to craft everything from iron railings and lamps to fine jewelry.  

There are two main types – openwork and metal supported.  Often, these two styles are combined to create an even more interesting and beautiful design.  This lovely late Edwardian ring is a stellar example.  Filigree is achieved by stretching thin metal strips into threadlike wires.  Each one is twisted, woven or coiled using heat to soften and manipulate it into the desired shape. 

The best metal choices for filigree are platinum, 14-karat or lower karat gold.  These sturdier metals are necessary to give strength to this delicate configuration.  Heavier wire forms a structural framework of the ring.  Smaller decorative wires are sculpted into ornamental scrolls.  Every line is further enhanced with tiny milgrain beads that offer texture and visual appeal. 

This process is completed over and over until the piece is complete.  Bezel set in the center of this lace finery is one cabochon oval amethyst.  A twisted-wire frame encapsulates the purple gem.  Twenty-one tiny seed pearls have been carefully strung on a wire that also encircles and enhances the soft violet stone.  The romantic feel of the ring is tied up in a small golden bow that crowns each shoulder.  Made in or near 1915, this charming beauty is priced at just $675.00.  It’s available in store or online  – make it yours today.

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

What’s New – Volume 27

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, and The Latest Things

“Diamonds.  Diamonds.  I don’t mean rhinestones, but diamonds are a girls best friend.”

Marilyn Monroe crooned these words in 1953.  And while they are undeniably true, the sentiment surely had to have begun much earlier.  No one could have laid eyes on the featured piece in our “What’s New” category this week without being smitten.  Personally, I have declared it to be my new BFF!

This buxom beauty was crafted near 1915 in the Edwardian era.  With a harlequin type pattern, the setting of this ring has all the earmarks of the time…  delicate milgrain beaded edges, hand-pierced cut-outs and old cut diamond trim.  The platinum metal has been polished to a pristine shine.  Together, all of these details combine to create the ideal setting for that dreamy center stone.

An Old European Cut dazzler, this diamond weighs approximately 1.48 carats.  It presents with bright white color, hitting the chart at “I”.  The clarity grade is VS2 – quite clean.  It’s a true beauty.  The ring itself measures 3/4 of an inch from top to bottom.  The physical size is impressive and yet completely wearable.  Perfect on any digit you choose, personally I would wear it on my index or middle finger.  A true antique, this authentic ring is available now for just $10,750.00.  Stop by the store and check it out for yourself.

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

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