Pick of the Week – Volume 69

Joden Girl

Baubles and Bling with Unbelievable Pricing

Today, we’re sharing a small part of a love story that’s nearly two hundred years old.  In the early 1800’s (most likely 1835-1840), it became fashionable to wear a piece of jewelry that hinted at a secret love affair.  Incredibly intimate, these treasures were usually brooches although a few rings, bracelets and lockets were also created.  These meaningful tokens were small oil paintings that depicted just one thing…  a miniature portrait of their loved one’s eye.  This clever bit of subterfuge kept the person close without disclosing their true identity. 

Commonly referred to as “lovers eyes”, these pieces were most often worn my men.  Pinned to a shoulder, lapel, scarf, sleeve, or even a hat – these dainty masterpieces were popular from 1785-1850.  Quite rare, just a few of these antique beauties are available for purchase.  We have only ever had two or three of them, including this one.  Measuring just over an inch wide and just shy of an inch tall, this lovely brooch is comprised of yellow gold.  Unmarked, the metal tests 12-karat on the XRF analyzer ( x-ray fluorescence analyzer that determines the elemental composition of a piece).  Twenty-nine creamy pearls surround the painting itself which highlights a single right eye.  The iris is dark brown in color as is the eyebrow and hair that has been swept back from the alabaster face.  

When viewed from behind, more details are revealed.  A lock of that chestnut brown hair has been plaited and saved beneath a tiny piece of glass with a soft beveled edge.  The pin stem is heavy and extends beyond the edge of the brooch.  A coiled wire in the shape of a “C” forms the catch that holds the hinged pin stem.  Both of these particulars further confirm that this piece was made in the early 1800’s.  This brooch has been on our site for a considerable amount of time – years, in fact.  And while we have been great custodians of this nearly two-hundred-year-old treasure, it’s time for it to find a forever home.  Lovers eyes are highly collectible and sought out by a select group of historians, connoisseurs, and true romantics. The previous price was $5,500.00.  In an endeavor to find a recipient who values it as much as the person who originally commissioned it, we are now offering it for just $2,200… a fraction of the original price.  

As I mentioned, it has been exceptionally well cared for and remains in excellent condition.  One tiny gold ring is visible at the top edge of the frame.  At one time, there was most likely a bail here so that it could also be worn as a pendant.  Though it would not be original, another ring or a bail could be added with no problem.  This one-of-a-kind jewel now has an incredible price drop.  If you’ve been looking for something special to add to your collection, this just might be it.  It’s available on our site or in the store.

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photography by Dana Jerpe

More than Black and White

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, and Enameled Things

Imagine, if you can, what you will look like when you’re 200 years old…  Will you be dust and ashes, scattered to the wind?  Or perhaps there’ll be nothing left but a hollow shape, a shell of your former self.  In any case, it’s certain that you won’t look as good as this stunning Swiss Enamel bangle pictured above.

Admit it, no matter how many trips to the gym you make, or how well you take care of yourself – as the years pass, time takes a toll.  Nothing could be farther from the truth in regard to this bracelet.  It’s in near perfect condition…  almost identical to the day it was made, nearly two centuries ago. 

The center section, a scalloped oval of buttery yellow gold was hand crafted in classic repousse style (a technique in which metal is hammered from behind in order to create shape and form).  Then this remarkably lightweight shell was painstakingly enameled from edge to edge in black and white patterns of flowers, leaves, and scrolls.  It’s a rare and beautiful thing, and in infinitely better condition than I will be in 150 years!

 

Here are two more examples of Swiss Enamel jewelry.  The brooch and earring suite is a more typical subject matter for the early 19th century.  Often, these elaborate enamel plaques featured grand landscapes paired with peasants garbed in regional attire.  More often than not, these scenic examples were sold as souvineers to wealthy travelers.  Rich black and white enamel patterns create a framework for these lovely maidens. 

If you look closely at the bottom of the earrings in the second photo, you’ll notice a quite remarkable thing.  Each one is accentuated by a tiny oval hair receiver.  These are a first for me – I’ve never seen an earring with a hair locket!  Even more unusual is that it’s on the front of the earring rather than the back.  It’s interesting to note that both pairs of earrings shown above are referred to as “day to night” earrings – meaning that the bottom section is removable.  You can wear the tops alone for a casual daytime look or add the dramatic bottom portion for more formal evening attire.

Last but not least is this stunning polychromatic enameled link bracelet.  It features a rare combination of champlevé  and basse-taille enamel.  These two old world techniques combine in an explosion of multicolored design.  From the alternating black and white floral links to the bright orange, red, green, and blue enameled plaques between…  it’s a veritable feast for the eyes.  These are true treasures; too good to miss.  And as always, you can go to a museum and look or you can come to us and touch. 

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Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Shelly Isacco

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