Sign of The Times

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, and Political Things

On this day – November 4th – in the year 1842, Mary Anne Todd said “I Do” to a young lawyer with political aspirations from Hardin County, Kentucky.  His name was Abraham Lincoln.  He would go on to be the first Republican President, and is credited with steering The United States through The Civil War, the most tumultuous time in the history of our country.

In 1861, upon winning the Presidential election, and in anticipation of the Inaugural Ball, President Lincoln commissioned a three piece seed pearl suite for his wife to wear to the ball.  The delicate demi-parure (pictured below) was created by Tiffany & Co.

mary-todd-lincoln-in-pearl-demi-parure     mary-todd-lincon-portrait-2

This style of jewelry had been popular since the early 1800’s – making a crossover between the late Georgian and Early Victorian periods.  These jewels were often lacey in appearance, each one constructed from a Mother of Pearl base upon which natural seed pearls were sewn, with either pale horse hair or gut.  Many of these suites had multiple pieces and were sold as bridal gifts.

The bottom shelf of our Victorian case is home to several similar seed pearl creations, including one six-piece set in its original fitted box.  The suite contains one choker, two pair of pierced earrings, two small pins, and one large brooch.

pearlinbox

Each one was made in the manner detailed above with silver clasps, pin stems, and earring backs.  Each tiny pearl (measuring less than one millimeter each) has been painstakingly sewn into floral and leaf patterns.  The red leather case was specially crafted for these pieces and is marked inside the lid with a tiny crown and the following words:

The London Bullion Co, Ltd.

Jewellers

33 Haymarket

London S.W.1

pearlonglass1

Being nearly 200 years old, it is in near perfect condition.  It’s easy to see why our motto holds true…

“You can go to a museum and look, or you can come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos courtesy of internetstones.com and Carla Leight

Pinktober

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, and Pink Things

This morning – in the midst of packing backpacks, finding homework, and pouring bowls of cereal – I quickly changed around the laundry to save myself some time later.  I pulled the clothes from the dryer; a black and gold Grove City Eagles jersey with the #2 on it, shiny black pants, and a pair of bright pink socks… everything my oldest son will need to dress for his game tomorrow.  He also proudly adds his pink arm bands and adheres strips of pink tape to everything from his visor to his cleats.  If it were January or any other month of the year, he wouldn’t even consider wearing pink – but this month, he and his teammates honor all those who have battled breast cancer.

That got me thinking pink, in every variety…  pink gold, sparkling pink gemstones, and soft pink enamels.  Pink, pink, pink!

pink-3 pink-2 pink-1

These three pieces are just a couple of examples of the unique pink jewels we have in our online store; from a pair of David Yurman pink tourmaline earrings to a modern Rhodonite ring.  There are infinitely more choices in our store at 144 South Broad Street.  So, whether you are wearing pink for yourself or in honor of someone else, Joden is the place to get it!

“You can go to a museum and look, or you can come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Shelly Isacco

Now You See It…

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling, and Missing Things

It was luck.  Being in the right place at the right time.  That is what initially spurred a younger Joe Murawski to begin collecting the rare works of renowned jeweler, Carlo Giuliano.  When a colleague passed up an opportunity to buy a tiny intricately enameled butterfly, Joe stepped in and purchased the lifelike gem.  The images below show the butterfly featured on an early piece of Joden advertising.

old-brochure

giuliano-butterfly

In the years since, Joe has collected and privately placed over forty pieces of the work of the Giuliano family; some from the father, and some from the sons, Carlo Joseph and Arthur.  The current collection features twenty three examples, each one a treasure in its own right.  The crown jewel, in Murawski’s eyes, is an extremely rare multicolored enamel cross (shown below).  Acquired from a private source, the cross is a true one of a kind.

Giuliano cross 8-24c.eps     Giuliano cross back 9-09.eps

In what can only be called a case of mysterious disappearance, eight Giuliano pieces vanished four years ago.  We had kept the rarest of the collection in one box in Joe’s office…  a gem-set bracelet worn by Queen Victoria (pictured below), an agate scarab and enamel pendant, a garnet-carved cameo of the Greek god Mercury, a multicolored sapphire and enamel bar pin, a moonstone cruciform pendant, a black and white enameled mourning locket, an oversize Lapis Lazuli cross, a heart-shaped pendant depicting a multicolored enamel cherub (shown below), and a fine carved opal cameo with rose cut diamond frame.  All of these were in a cardboard box, marked on one corner was the word “Giuliano” in Joe’s handwriting.

giuliano-victoria     cherub

It was a late summer day in August of 2012.  Joe had a client in the office, and as was his habit, he showed the Giuliano collection.  Playback of video surveillance shows him opening the butterfly-style box containing the Victoria bracelet, sharing it with the client, then placing it on the desk beside him.  This is the last tangible evidence of those pieces.  They were never seen again.  Several theories have been postulated – perhaps the box was knocked off the desk into the garbage can.  Perhaps they were stolen.  Perhaps the box is still here somewhere…  waiting to be found.  Four years have passed since that fateful day, without even a hint as to what may have transpired.

It was only in researching this post that I discovered that ours was not the first box of missing Giuliano jewelry.  After his death in 1895, Carlo the father bequeathed a selection of his enamels to the South Kensington Museum (Victoria & Albert Museum) to be displayed outside the tea room.  In 1899, the box that contained the pieces was stolen.  Experts theorized that the items were melted for scrap gold value.

For a collection that began with a stoke of luck, it nearly ended with a stroke of misfortune.  In the days and weeks after the loss, our passion for the collection waned.  However, as more time passed Joe added several newly acquired pieces to the collection (like the brooch pictured below).  Our original love was restored.  The Giuliano collection is once again in its place of honor, quietly gracing the top tier of our museum case.

black-and-white-giuliano-brooch

Written by Carrie Martin

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