portrait miniature

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and A Collector’s Things

If you have visited our showroom at 144 South Broad Street, you no doubt have perused one or more of the antique jewelry cases at the back of the store.  Each one is more enticing than the last, overflowing with Victorian and Art Deco treasures.  There is one case that stands out from all the others…  we affectionately refer to it as “the museum case”.  And while the case itself was most likely made in the 1950’s, each of the thirty-eight pieces contained inside are indeed museum quality.  Lovingly curated over the past three decades, our collection of the works of Carlo Giuliano most certainly rival any other.

Born in Italy in 1831, Giuliano emigrated to London in 1860.  He partnered with another well-known Italian jeweler, Castellani.  Inspired by archaeological jewelry, in the early days, his work was largely done in a revivalist style.  He retailed his wares through respected and established firms like C. F. Hancock and Robert Phillips.  By 1874, his reputation had grown and he was able to open a retail shop entirely his own at 115 Piccadilly.  Giuliano’s tiny establishment was filled with enameled jewels decorated with unusual gemstones.  His superb work stood out in stark contrast to other artists.  His meticulous attention to detail came to life in his Renaissance aesthetic and paired beautifully with Giuliano’s flair for contemporary wear-ability resulting in unparalleled creations.  

This locket is our most recent acquisition.  Purchased from our friends in London (who know Joe is an avid collector of Giuliano’s works); this near-mint condition pendant showcases the intricate patterns of enameling that Giuliano’s masterpieces are recognized for.  The stark white enamel complements the soft blue tones and provide an ideal background for countless microscopic deep-blue dots.  Executed in a medallion style with an eight-petaled blossom in the center, the design swirls out in graduating curls and whorls.  The border fully encapsulates the locket with a repeating fancy figure-eight-shape.  

Inside is a watercolor portrait miniature of Sir William Lawrence.  The aforementioned gentleman was quite well known…  a 1st Baronet FRCS FRS, an English surgeon, Fellow of the Royal Society, President of the Royal College of Surgeons of London and Sergeant-Surgeon to Queen Victoria.  She would later reward his illustrious career as a surgeon with a baronetcy shortly before his death.  

On the back side, encased beneath a glazed glass compartment is a lock of Sir William’s hair, complete with a small decorative wire to hold the golden curl in place.  Also, peep the little golden oval carefully soldered to the top of the frame.  It features the initials C. G. and is the hallmark for Carlo Giuliano.  As not all of his works were signed, this emblem is a significant find.  The entire pendant nestles into a deep purple velvet case that also bears the mark of Giuliano. 

For inquiring minds, this historical piece is for exhibition only.  We are honored to be the stewards of such a noteworthy jewel and were tickled to add it to our extensive collection.

“You can go to a museum and look, or you can come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe