Signature Series – Volume 18

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Quality Things

In 1979, partners Jay Bauer and Anthony Hopenhajm founded a new and innovative jewelry design firm that utilized organic materials like rare wood breeds and seashells as well as gemstones.  The result was bold – these chic motifs became wearable modern art.  Trianon pieces were instantly recognizable and highly sought after.

Just thirteen years later, in 1992, this dynamic duo purchased another iconic company.  Seaman Schepps was a well-known brand for decades.  Established in 1904, the aesthetic was very much the same as Trianon – natural elements and candy-colored gems reigned supreme.  Schepps was an American designer inspired by frequent trips to Paris, the fashion capital of the world.  A family company, the firm passed from father to daughter after his retirement in the late 1960’s.  Patricia was at the helm of the ship until she sold to Jay and Anthony.  Trianon and Seaman Schepps continue to be widely recognized and wildly successful.  

A recent acquisition, these original Trianon studs offer the whimsical style that the brand is famous for.  These 20mm earrings capitalize on an unusual shade of jade.  Presenting with a lovely soft greenish-blue hue, each rounded cabochon gem is polished to a shine and nestled within a 14-karat yellow gold frame.  A solid sheet of gold covers the back of each earring and fully encapsulates the edge of the jade.  

Though these earrings are currently made in non-pierced fashion, a post could easily be added for those with pierced ears.  My favorite part of the earrings is the whimsical and somewhat random golden rivets that decorate the smooth surface of the jade.  There are two distinct sizes of rivets, a small and a larger size.  The larger rivets hold four round cabochon sapphires and the smaller rivets hold three round brilliant diamonds in each earrings.  The deep blue and white gems add a bright pop of color.  Combined, the eight sapphires have a weight of .40 carat and the six diamonds have a weight of .18 carat.  

Shown here, the Trianon hallmark is crisp and clean.  Likely made in the 1980’s, these are the latest addition to our estate department.  The earrings are available for just $1,350.00.  After assuming ownership of Seaman Schepps, Anthony Hopenhajm stated “It is vital, as time passes, to look around, be receptive to the times, and to be open to changes in the marketplace and potential clients.”  That’s very solid advice from a man who leads not just one but two powerhouse jewelry companies!  

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

Sapphire Shimmer

Joden Girl

Baubles, Bling and Sparkly Things

With a silky smooth and high-polish domed surface, the cabochon is one of the oldest gemstone cuts.  Unlike most cutting techniques, there is no faceting in the cabochon.  The absence of facets means that there are no spots for light to reflect from.  Instead, this simple and refined cut allows us to focus solely on the rich color. 

A clean, transparent gemstone crystal will produce the finest cabochon stone.  Even distribution of color is of the utmost importance.  Color banding (or zoning) is an unevenness in color.  This natural happening would be easily spotted in a cabochon which is why lapidaries choose fine, clean stones for this unique cut.  Sapphire is one of the most common choices for cab (as cabochon are often called) cuts.

Sapphire crystals are harvested from the Earth in a variety of shapes, colors and clarity grades.  Each one is individually studied to determine how to best highlight the raw beauty of the crystal.  After cutting, the stone is polished to a pristine shine – this step is especially important in cabochons.  

This week, we are showcasing the cabochon cutting technique with a stunning pair of modern yellow gold sapphire and diamond earrings.  These earrings center on a perfectly matched set of oval cabochon sapphires.  Combined, these gems have a total weight of approximately 3.50 carats.  Each deep blue gem is bezel set within a pear-shaped halo of round brilliant diamonds.  With the point of the pear facing south, the bedazzled portion of the earring dangles from a sleek lever-back wire.

Forming each tear drop are sixteen round brilliant diamonds, thirty-two in all.  These sparklers have a total weight of approximately 4.50 carats!  The effect is exquisite…  the simple refined look of the cabochon sapphires juxtaposes perfectly against the scintillating sizzle of the fully faceted diamonds.  These luxurious earrings are available for $7,500.00 – stop by our showroom to make them yours today.

“You can go to a museum and look, or come to us and touch.”

Written by Carrie Martin

Photos by Dana Jerpe

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